Hey mates, today I'll be showing you how I would do a FBA on the Gibbons Slip Dress
Do you need a Full Bust Adjustment?
There are a few ways to tell if you need to do an FBA. If your full bust measurement is larger than the full bust measurement that corresponds to your high bust measurement in the size chart. Also, if you've sewn a toile and there is tightness in the bust, the fabric is pulling forward at the front armhole, or there are drags lines radiating out from the bust.
It's always worth checking the finished garment measurements of your pattern first before starting your FBA.
Being a bias cut dress with a fairly low neckline, this style is a little more forgiving than a fully enclosed bodice cut on the straight grain. So if you're only one or two cup sizes above the C/D cup option, I'd still recommend sewing a toile as is, before going straight to an alteration, as you may find it still fits you well without adjustments.
I've attached an image of the fitting notes from the instructions that talks about sewing cup sizes (because in case you didn't know, sewing cup sizes are different to bra sizes!).
The combined C/D cup has a 3.5in (9cm) difference between the high bust measurement and full bust measurement.
If you have determined you definitely need the FBA, you'll also need to calculate how much to add to your FBA.
First things first, find your size in the size chart using your high bust measurement.
Check the corresponding full bust measurements of that size. Calculate the difference between the largest full bust size available in your size and your actual full bust size.
Because the front pattern piece is based on half your body, you will need to divide the number by two – that’s how much you'll be adding to the pattern piece.
For example: These measurements below put the wearer in a size D, except for the full bust, which is an F. There is an extra 4in (10cm) between the full bust measurement for size D and size F. Half that is 2in (5cm). So they'd be cutting out size D and doing a FBA of 2in (5cm).
Let's get started.
Take your front bodice pattern piece. Mark where the apex of your bust hits (marked with red cross).
Mark the 1cm seam allowance around the lower curve of the armscye (red line).
Draw 3 lines (shown in blue)
1. From the bust point to the lower curve of the armscye.
2. From the bust point to the side seam
3. From the bust point to the halfway point between the notches
Cut through line 3, starting at the hem. Pivot at the bust point and continue cutting through line 1, stopping at the seam allowance you drew in (red line). Cut a small notch through the seam allowance at line 1, leaving a small paper hinge at the sewing line.
Cut through line 2, stopping just before the bust point, leaving another small paper hinge.
Take a blank piece of paper, larger than the pattern piece. Place the pattern on top.
Measure the distance of your FBA from line 3 (5cm in my example). You can draw these parallel lines in on the piece of blank paper if you like (green lines).
Please note, I've redrawn the bust point (red cross) to sit in the middle of the added width.
Cut a line from the bust apex to the front neckline (shown in purple). Slide this piece down so the hem lines are more in line and the neckline has extra depth.
Pivot the lower side quadrant of the pattern piece up to eliminate the gap in the side seam.
Re-draw your front neckline and under bust, blending between the pieces to get a smooth line (shown in orange). Trace out your new pattern piece onto a fresh piece of paper, transferring the notches, grainline and any other relevant markings.
The extra room that's been added in to the under bust seam will be gathered in to fit to the front skirt. Using this method there's no need to alter any other of the pattern pieces.
Hope this helps! I look forward to seeing how you make this pattern your own tag. As always, tag me on Instagram using the hashtags #gibbonsslipdress and #elbetextiles so I can admire your handiwork.
x Lauren