Greetings sewing friends. Today I come to you with a super simple hack for my latest sewing pattern release - the Gibbons Slip Dress.
Here's how to make it into a skirt.
You can make this lined or unlined, it's really up to you and your fabric choice. I'll be doing a lined version for this tutorial.
This pattern is a bias cut garment and calls for woven fabrics on the drapier side - cupro, sandwashed silk, rayon, Tencel, silk satin, silk charmeuse, silk crepe, linen viscose, washed linen etc.
You will also need a length of elastic to fit around your waist. I like to use 5cm (2in) wide elastic, but you can use what you've already got lying around. I wouldn't use anything thinner than 2.5cm (1in) though as it might not be sturdy enough. This particular method will ensure the elastic is hidden with a clean finish on the waist.
In the instructions that come with the pattern, you'll notice on page 5 there are notes on how to prepare the pattern pieces. I'll post this section below.
PREPARING YOUR PATTERN
Due to paper size limitations, the skirt front and back pattern pieces are printed in half.
Before you cut out your fabric, you will need to create full pattern pieces.
Take a large sheet of tracing paper/pattern paper and fold it in half. Place the pattern pieces up against the folded edge and trace around the outside,
transferring all the notches and other pattern markings. Cut the new pattern pieces out.
As stated above, you'll need to do this on the skirt front and back pattern pieces. But for todays tutorial, we'll just be using the back pattern piece.
I'm using View A as an example to make a midi length skirt, but you can apply the same steps to View B for a shorter skirt.
Lets go!
Take your back pattern piece. The second set of notches from the top (shown by the red arrows) indicate where the waist is on the pattern. Draw a line 1cm (3/8in) above these notches. You can either cut along this line, or fold the pattern at this line if you'll be using it again as the dress in the future.
Time to cut out your fabric. Make sure it's been pre-washed and pressed.
This new skirt pattern piece will be acting as your front and back, so you'll have to trace it out twice. No need to trace the darts for the skirt front, and it's optional to trace them on the back. Use them for a sleeker fit. Personally, I don't bother as I like a smoother look and the elastic does a lot of the work in cinching everything in.
Repeat this process with the lining fabric (if you're choosing to line it). You will also need to cut 2.5cm (1in) or more off the hem to avoid the lining hanging out once everything is assembled.
Wrap a length of elastic around your waist and cut it to to a length that feels secure. Overlap the ends and sew the elastic together in a cross formation.
Place your skirt front and skirt back pieces together, right sides facing. Line up the notches running along the side seams. Sew along the side seams using a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. Finish/overlock the seams and press towards the back.
(You may also prefer to finish the fabric separately and press the seam open to reduce bulk, it's really up to you and what's best for your fabric choice).
Repeat this process for your skirt lining pieces. To reduce bulk at the side seams once everything is assembled, you may like to press the seam allowance towards the front for the lining.
Place the skirt lining over the main skirt, so the side seams are matching up. Right sides of fabric facing together.
Sew around the waist using a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance.
Divide the elastic into quarters and mark with pins. Do the same on the waist of the skirt, using the side seams as a guide to find the centre front and centre back.
Place the elastic against the wrong side of the skirt lining, matching up the quarters/pins. Align the top edge of the elastic with the edge of the fabric.
Change the settings on your sewing machine to a stretch stitch (zig zag etc). You could also use an overlocker.
Sew the elastic to the skirt, using a 1cm seam allowance. Pull the elastic taut as you sew, making sure the fabric is sitting flat against it.
Turn the skirt out to the right side. Your elastic will now be sandwiched between the lining and the main fabric and the 1cm (3/8in) of elastic that was in the seam allowance will create a bit of a lid - ensuring the lining won't be seen at the waist.
You may also like to understitch the lining to the elastic.
Roll the hem up towards the wrong side by 0.8cm (0.3in). Turn it up again by 0.8cm (0.3in) to create a double rolled hem. Stitch neatly along the folded edge.
Please note: It’s recommended to hang your dress up and leave it overnight before hemming. Bias cut dresses tend to grow and stretch in length. Once you’ve let it hang, try the dress on and cut off any excess fabric, making sure the hem is even and straight.
And you're done! Hope this helps.
x Lauren
