Today I’ll be showing you how to blend between sizes for the Reznor Skirt.
It’s straightforward enough for most of the pattern pieces, but I want to focus on the Front Skirt Top piece, as that is where things get a bit different!
First things first, let me explain what is going on with this pattern piece so you have a better understanding of why we’ll be blending between sizes this different way.
When I grade the side seam of a garment, there is usually a 1.27cm difference (1/2 inch) between each size. And you’ll notice that the left side of the skirt has this standard difference between sizes.
But you'll notice a bigger difference between sizes on the right side of the skirt.
This is because the size of the pleat also increases with each size. Which means we can't just blend between the sizes as the new line we draw between the waist and the hip will end up more angled than it should.
SO. Here's what we can do instead. I'll show you an example using someone whose waist measurement corresponds with size E, but their hip is a size D.
This pattern is layered, so you can choose to see only the sizes you need. The following images will only show size D and E.
Draw a gently curved line between the different sizes on all the pattern pieces (except for right side of the Skirt Front Top). Start at the waist and blend to the hip notch.
I've used a red line to show the new side seam on the pattern pieces. (Lining pattern pieces not shown, but the principle is the same for these).
Cut out the pattern pieces, except for the Front Skirt Top piece.
Lay the Front Skirt Bottom on top of the Front Skirt Top piece as shown, so the waistlines are aligned. Make sure corner point of the waist of the smaller sizes (in this case, Size D) are lined up.
Use the side seam of the Front Skirt Bottom as a guide to draw on a new side seam for the Front Skirt Top piece.
Cut out your amended pattern piece and you're good to go!
One more thing important thing before you go!
Use the notches and markers for the pleat that correspond to your waist size. For this example, I will be sewing the pleat using the Size E markers.
Don't try to blend between one size notch on the waistline and a different size marker at the hip as it will throw things out. Just stick with your waist size!
Go forth and skirt. Looking forward to seeing your creations. Remember to tag me on Instagram and use the hashtags #elbetextiles and #reznorskirt
x Lauren